The road up to Claremorris from Liscannor flashes by the windows and with every mile, we inhabit this landscape of blurred hedgerow, jet contrails in the sunset sky, the road ahead and that odd flyover that is so like an alpine tunnel. And on into the town of Claremorris, hunched together and bustling in the evening streetlamp glow, cones of misty light forming a row down the street. Gallery! Gallery! The neon announces.